Edinburgh, Scotland

     In general, Scotland is an amazing country. Only here have we experienced a warm sunny morning, a blizzard in the afternoon, followed by a cool breezy evening. The capital of Scotland is Edinburgh, a beautiful old city. The architecture itself is a spectacle, the perfect balance between Gothic and Medieval styles. The city is not afraid to show off its gorgeous castle either. It sits high and proud at the top of a large rock, looking over the city. To best enjoy Edinburgh, you must take your time and walk through the city. Sit in a nice cafe somewhere with a view, which is extremely easy to find.

Coming to Scotland you must have an appreciation for art. All national galleries are free, so you can spend all day browsing the multitude of museums throughout the city. Visiting Edinburgh Castle is not free. In fact, it costs 16 Pounds, which is more than I have ever payed to see a castle. However, it is by far the largest I have seen, containing several war museums within its' walls. The history of the castle dates back to over 3000 years and has only recently stopped being used for military purposes, though not necessarily as a defensive structure. I would give the castle a 100% recommendation regardless of the outrageous price, because most other things in the city are free. 

Edinburgh is well worth a visit, especially if you want to feel like you are in the Middle Ages, with the exception of the constant bagpipes you hear throughout the city. That was not a joke either. You can travel between Edinburgh and Glasgow for only 1 Pound, and I highly recommend both cities when you come to the UK. 

Warnings to the Americans...

 

 I thought it would be worth it to write a little bit about the impression the international community has left on me regarding the overall stereotypes about Americans. Note, I am generalizing which I know is not very fair. Just want my American friends to have a slight understanding as to what they should expect.

1. Guns

I have been asked about guns on several occasions. Before travelling, I had no clue that most people of the world are not allowed to own a gun. However, to assume that every American owns a gun is absurd. Here is a dialogue that I have experienced more than once.

Random Person: "Hi, where are you from?"
Me: "America!"
Random Person: "Oh really? Do you own a gun?!"
Me: "Uh... no." What kind of question is that?

That is not even an exaggeration.

2. Portion Size

It is no secret to the international community that portion sizes in America are well beyond that which a normal human can consume, except for us. I must say, I often find myself a bit hungry after a full meal in many places. In addition to that, apparently the only "American food" known to exist is the hamburger. True story.

3. Bad English

English speakers all over the world always claim that they cannot understand American English. To be fair, we do not pronounce words as clearly as other members of the English speaking community. Think of how we pronounce "ninety" or "quarter." Say it out loud. Do you hear a "t" sound? Neither do I. Non-native English speakers don't do too well with this.

4. Passports

It happens to be a fact that most Americans do not have a passport. Those of you who do not will not be able to find out that the world is well aware of this problem. Americans do not travel, it's not a part of our culture. Which is why many of my relatives are baffled by my decision to travel the globe. To many people, this makes Americans uneducated and ignorant about everything beyond the borders of the USA I urge you to prove them wrong. Get a passport and see the world!

Sahara Desert Voyage, Morocco

      Morocco is so rich in culture and natural beauty. One of its many jewels is the Sahara Desert. The desert lies in the deep south of Morocco, through the High Atlas Mountains. The voyage to the desert is long, but beautiful. Since the Sahara is so big, there are several options as to where you can do your desert trek. The two most popular would be Zagora and Merzouga. We went to Merzouga due to the fact that these are the highest sand dunes in Morocco. Getting there is easy. Tour buses leave Marrakesh every  morning, without fail. From Marrakesh you will undoubtedly stop at the incredible Ait Benhaddou, an old Berber town with an immaculate Kasbah, or Moroccan castle. Many movies and television shows were filmed at this location form the studio in Ouarzazate.

Ait Benhaddou

     Most desert trips are very similar You start your journey form the city of your choice, Merzouga or Zagora, departing by camel. These animals are not comfortable at all. They hurt your rump and they are fond of crop-dusting since they are tied to each other. You get to experience a sunset like no other in the dunes of the Sahara. After an extremely painful hour, you arrive at a campsite where you are treated to a nice tagine and some Berber Whiskey(tea). The desert is absolutely freezing at night so the locals light a fire and treat you to some Berber tunes. The experience is amazing and well worth it, disregarding the camels, which are the only possible way across the dunes besides a jeep, but where is the fun in that? 

Fuengirola, Spain

     I have formed a poor opinion of Fuengirola. Located in Southern Spain, just south of Malaga, the city is situated on a beautiful beachfront, lined with large hotels and resorts. Sounds great right? Afraid not. The city is an awful tourist destination, filled not with your average charming Spaniards, but with the awful bitchy entitled-to-everything type from the English speaking community. Sorry to offend if you are one of those. Those who are not bitchy are either drunk or trying to sell you drugs. How could I forget the prostitutes? A huge drug-bust closed down our hostel halfway through our stay, forcing us to pay a substantial amount for accommodation and we lost the money we put into the hostel. Not to mention, unlike the wonderful northern part of the country, the food spots around Fuengirola were sub-par, if that.

     The city does have a beautiful castle though. Guess what? You can't go in! There is no fun to be had in this city. I wouldn't ever say that every city has its gems. Fuengirola is best avoided. 

"The Road Goes Ever On"

"The Road Goes Ever On" is a poem written by  J.R.R Tolkien and first recited by Bilbo Baggins in "The Hobbit." This is one of my favorite pieces of poetry and I think it is very relevant and inspiring for this type of journey.

 Roads go ever ever on,

 Over rock and under tree,

 By caves where never sun has shone,

 By streams that never find the sea;

 Over snow by winter sown,

 And through the merry flowers of June,

 Over grass and over stone,

 And under mountains in the moon.

 Roads go ever ever on

 Under cloud and under star,

 Yet feet that wandering have gone

 Turn at last to home afar.

 Eyes that fire and sword have seen

 And horror in the halls of stone                      Look at last on meadows green

                                                      And trees and hills they long have known.

The poem is altered by Bilbo in "The Lord of the Rings," and is a bit more to my liking:

                                                     The Road goes ever on and on

                                                     Out from the door where it began.

Now far ahead the Road has gone,

Let others follow it who can!

Let them a journey new begin,

But I at last with weary feet

Will turn towards the lighted inn,

My evening-rest and sleep to meet.

Montreux and Chateau de Chillon

     
      Situated on the northern coast of Lake Geneva sits the small city of Montreux, Switzerland. This beautiful city rests at the base of the snowy Swiss Alps and is only a one hour ride to the top of the mountains. Although the ride can be expensive, it is most certainly worth the time and money. Also in Montreux is the stunning Chateau de Chillon. Chillon is an enormous fortress built on a rocky out-crop of Lake Geneva. Within the castle is its' small cellar where you can buy their unique wine, tour the battlements and prisons, and feel as if you are in the Middle Ages.
      The unfortunate thing about Switzerland is that it is one of the most expensive countries that we have been to in Europe. When you are traveling on a budget, the country is best avoided. If you are like me and you had to see the castle and the mountains, your best bet is to make it quick. We only spent 2 nights there. The country is beautiful and the people and food are great. It is just too expensive. Just be prepared to adjust your budget for the country or save a little extra before you travel.

The Swiss Alps

   
     Our world is filled with so much natural beauty. Jerry and I had the pleasure to witness the magnificence of the Swiss Alps. When you are above the clouds there is nothing but peace, quiet and a few birds. Snow capped peaks surround you as you breathe in the fresh mountain air. Nothing is more relaxing or more satisfying to behold.

  

   When you are on top of the world there is very little that goes through your mind, with the exception of a  frequent "wow." We stayed in the stunning area of Switzerland known as Rochers de Naye. All that existed in our little mountain escape was our hotel and the Alps. 

     I highly advise anyone to enhance their perspective of the world with a journey like this. It is one you will not likely forget. 

Dachau Concentration Camp

 

   Our travels have recently brought us to a WWII concentration camp in Dachau, just minutes outside of Munich, Germany. The camp gives you eerie insight to the life of a prisoner of the camp during the war. WWII had a huge influence on our world. Visiting a place like Dachau allows you to better understand the horrors of the war and the impact it had on Europe. By the height of the war, Dachau was holding more than 3 times the number of prisoners it was built to hold, making living conditions cramped and uncomfortable.

Sleeping Chambers

     The total death toll of Dachau has been undetermined, however it is in the estimated number of casualties is around 32,000. Visiting the camps' crematorium is as enlightening as it is spooky. Connected to the room with the furnace is the notorious gas chamber. Connected to that is the waiting room where prisoners were told that they were waiting to shower. So, the first room is the waiting room, followed by the gas chamber, followed by the crematorium. They burned them almost as quickly as they died. The feeling of tragedy is in the air, and it really makes you want to leave. Just outside though, you are greeted by flowery mass graves. Not very welcoming either. Although sad, I highly advise visiting Dachau. Admission is free, the experience is priceless. 

It is written that some prisoners were hanged on the wooden beams and then  immediately tossed into the furnace. 

Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau Castles

     Bavaria, Germany is a gorgeous place, a region with high mountains, glistening lakes and the most beautiful castles. Neuschwanstein is perhaps the most incredible castle in Germany. Although not as old as most castles, as it was built in the 1800's, the Fairy tale King Ludwig II had this castle built but died before it was finished. It was almost immediately turned into a museum, which according to the guide, remains 85% original. The only way to visit the castles interior is by guided tour, which I highly recommend. No photos allowed.
     The castle courtyard and gate is completely free and is a beautiful hike up the mountain, only about 30 minutes. You can also walk all around the castle for free and take in the scenic Bavarian Alps.

Castle Gate

Castle Courtyard

Castle Courtyard 

     King Maximilian, father of Ludwig II had built a castle in the same region before Neuschanstein, which was designed to be a better castle. The castle is named Hohenschwangau, and although not as immaculate as Neuschwanstein, it is still amazing. 

      Each castle can be seen from each others battlements. Hohenschwangau's interior is also only available as a guided tour. Walking the walls and gardens is free though.

Hohenschwangau surrounded by mountains as seen from Neischwanstein. 

  

Segovia, Spain

 

      If you enjoy places that come right out of a fantasy novel, Segovia, Spain is the perfect place for you. This magnificent town is laced with old Roman walls and a gorgeous country side. In addition to this is the immense Roman Aqueduct, which runs right through the busy town center and joins the tall walls that run throughout the city.

     The real highlight of this trip though was the Alcazar of Segovia. This is a huge castle that stands on an outcrop of rock overlooking the town. Entering the castle is a wonderful experience. You get to walk the battlements, view the armory, climb the keep and even do deep in to the castles' Roman foundations. The top of the keep gives you the best view of Segovia. Another great view comes from the opposite end, where the castle sticks out over the rock like the great mast of a ship.

Madrid, Spain

      Madrid, Spain is a wonderful city that is just so alive. I have not yet visited a city as animated as Madrid. And the livelihood of this city is authentic with a nice blend of locals and travelers, since the city has very little to offer in regards to tourism. The streets of the city are full of restaurants and shops tempting you with the smells of paella and Bocadillo de Calamares, a scrumptious fried calamari sandwich and must-eat of Madrid. When evening falls and it cools down, you have to treat yourself to Madrid's specialty, hot chocolate. Its like drinking a a melted version of the best chocolate in the world. Simply amazing.

      The San Miguel market is a great place to stumble into. There you can walk the stalls, and for only a few euros you can sample all the flavors of Madrid, shrimp ceviche, pastries, mojitos, shell fish, you name it. Beyond the active city center, the sights of Madrid are few, making them easy to explore and quickly so you can get back to eating. Here they are:

Almudena Cathedral

Royal Palace of Madrid

Plaza Mayor

The People of France

     I thought that I should take a minute to help crush the nasty stereotype about the French people being snobs. Since we first arrived in France, 99% of the people have been wonderful, helpful and genuine. You are guaranteed to come across rude people anywhere you go, but Americans seem to think that the French hate us. I have been here for two months and not one person has scowled at me or treated me differently because I am American. At any point that I needed help, it was easy to find, and they are more than happy to help me along with my French. They seem to like it actually.
     I need to say it one more time, read it and pass it on. The French people are nice and do not hate Americans! That is all.

An Anthony Hopkins look-alike enjoys a meal in Paris. 

Paris, France: Part 2

 
  If you wish to whiteness true beauty during your stay in Paris, spend a few hours of your trip to visit the Palace of Versailles. This palace has been inhabited by several members of French royalty throughout history and is laced with hundreds of gorgeous works of art fit to pleasure Kings. The best paintings are found on the ceilings of the the halls of the palace.  

When you go to Versailles, prepare to take your time strolling through the vast halls and gorgeous garden that surrounds the palace.

     Another incredible attraction of Paris is the river Seine. The Seine runs through the cities heart, making it perfect for an afternoon walk or an evening dinner cruise through The City of Lights. Enjoy a three course meal while you are slowly drifted past many famous sites of Paris, including the Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower. The cathedral of Notre Dame and the Louvre are also visible form the river. 

     Paris is always a good choice when traveling because there is so much to do. Unless you plan on spending weeks there, you cannot possibly do it all.... so why not spend weeks in Paris? 

Château de Chenonceau

   

      Chenonceau is easily the most beautiful castle that I have visited in my journeys. The chateau is built over Le Cher river and is amazingly gorgeous. Chenonceau was the preferred choice of several Kings of France and their Queens, including Catherine di Medici. Being located in central France, Chenonceau is only 2 hours away from Paris, and even closer to several other large French cities such as Orleans and Tours.

Chenonceau is surrounded by two enormous gardens, a few restaurants and a hedge maze. A visit to the castle and its' grounds is an experience you will never forget.

Turin, Italy

     Turin is such a beautiful city, but although it does not offer much beyond its' Italian charm, for good reason it has been named the chocolate capital of Italy. I want to go over what is necessary to have the best chocolaty experience from Turin. The city has a unique way of having every store front contained within gorgeous arches set into the buildings, keeping them off of the road and keeping you, and the chocolate, out of the sun.

Within these scenic arches is the true spirit of Turin. Chocolate shops. We tried four different chocolates: milk chocolate, milk chocolate truffle, milk-dark chocolate lemon and hazelnut chocolate. All absolutely delicious. If traveling to Turin for leisure, I recommend buying more. Being of a strict budget, not strict enough for chocolate splurging, Jerry and I need to take it easy, but you have to try as many pieces of chocolate as your heart desires. By the way, Paris is not the only city with fabulous macaroons. Turin chocolate makes wonderful macaroons and even better gelato. Yummy :)

Photography

     I have a very unchangeable opinion regarding photography, mostly because I have learned from my mistakes. I was 16 when I first traveled to Italy, my first international vacation. I went with my high school Italian class. Our voyage took us from northern Italy all the way through Sicily. The trip lasted two weeks, and when I returned home I realized that I had accumulated over 800 pictures. For what?! When I look at them, sure they are pleasant memories to reflect on, but I do not remember these wonderful places as they are in the photos. I would say that 99% of the pictures you will waste time taking cannot come close to properly displaying the splendor of what you are looking at, and I feel that you are robbing yourself of experiences by viewing them through a lens.

 I am not hating on every picture taken ever. Some pictures are well worth it,  I treasure dearly a picture of my Dad and I sitting at McGills Pub in Ireland. If you are a photographer, take as many as you would like. I just feel that as a traveler, it dampens the experience. Having learned from my lesson, I took fewer than 200 pictures during our voyage to Dublin. Still way too many. The one photo with my Pops is worth all 30 pictures I took of  Trim Castle and all 40 I took of Blarney Castle, plus all of the other random pictures that I felt that I needed to take. I take no more than 10 pictures of every city I visit now, that's it. If there are more than that, it's Jerry's fault. If you have to take a million pictures though, there is a story I want to share. When we were climbing the Duomo in Florence, about half way up I witnessed a man stop right in the middle of the walkway, stick his over-sized camera through a small ventilation window and lean in to take a picture of the view. While still in the way, almost as if in a trance he pulled his camera back to look at the picture, nodded in approval then kept walking. Did I mention he took the time to enjoy the view without his camera? No? That's because he didn't! So to all of you, I say that if you are going to take a picture of every amazing thing, do not forget to take the time to enjoy it as well. 

Florence, Italy

     Florence, Italy... capital of Tuscany, center of the art and history of the Italian Renaissance and by far my favorite city in the world. The feeling of this city is unimaginable and the only way to understand it is to find out for yourself. One of many highlights of Florence is the Duomo, or Brunelleschi's Dome, being named that because Brunelleschi painted the interior of the dome. This massive cathedral towers high above all other buildings in Florence and emits a presence that lingers with you as you pass through the city.

 
For only €10 you get to climb the dome, the bell tower attached and visit the museum below the Duomo that houses the ruined foundations of the cathedral during the time of Ancient Rome. Climbing the dome is the most extraordinary experience. The hike up brings you to the base of the beautiful art on the interior of the dome and continues to the spire atop the dome, giving the most breath taking view of the Renaissance city.

     A pleasant 5 minute walk from the Duomo will bring you to the Palazzo Vecchio, the Old Palace, and the Ponte Vecchio, the Old Bridge. Both are incredible monuments of Florence and its' history. The Palazzo Vecchio was once home to the Medici Family, the most influential family in the history of Tuscany and was later used as a political center. Today, it stands as a museum connected to the famous Uffizi Gallery. The gallery presents works for Botticelli, Rafael, Michelangelo and many more. Not far from Uffizi, the Accademia Museum displays the David from Michelangelo.

     Beyond being the largest bridge in Florence, the Ponte Vecchio is the only bridge along the Arno River that was not destroyed during WWII. The bridge is so large, unless you are paying attention, you can wonder onto the bridge and think you are still walking in the street. It is absolutely amazing.

     Our travels took us slightly outside of the city to a town called Greve in Chianti, part of the Chianti region, where we visited the vineyards responsible for the production of Chianti wine. The Tuscan countryside is simply fantastic and the wine is as good as it gets. While in Greve, we tasted their braised wild boar, deliciously slathered with an herbal Tuscan sauce atop yummy polenta. When you are anywhere in Italy, you have to treat yourself to a gelato. Most Gelatarie in Italy make their gelato on location, making it as fresh and delicious as it gets. Chianti, gelato and Florence are the formula for the perfect travel location that you simply cannot get enough of.

Paris, France

    Ah Paris... there is just too much to say about this wonderful city. Jerry and I stayed in a beautiful hostel in the Montmartre region, north of the river Seine, next to the breath-taking Sacre Coeur Cathedral. The cathedral sits at the peak of Paris and gives you a jaw dropping view of the city. This is just one of several fabulous attractions that Paris offers. It is impossible for me to cover all that there is to do in La Ville-Lumiere(The City of Light), and it was impossible for us to do everything in the 4 days we we there. What we were able to do is almost beyond words. I'm going to try to write it though.
     Paris is the home to beautiful works of art and architecture. The Catacombs offered a little bit of both and was my favorite part of the trip. You take a bone chilling descent that puts you in front of a creepy sign that reads: "Arrete! C'est ici l'Empire de la Mort"(Stop, here is the Empire of the Dead). Beyond the door, the walls are covered by skulls and bones, expertly crafted to form solid structures that extend the wall. It is a sight to see, if you can stomach looking at the millions of bodies that are used to make up these structures. Several of the bones are formed into pieces of art on the walls and make up huge pillars in the larger chambers.
     Although I found the Catacombs the most enjoyable attraction, climbing down into the depths of Paris was almost matched by climbing up the Eiffel Tower. The hundreds of pictures that you have seen throughout your life does not prepare you for the size of this monument. It is enormous! I mean, huge. The neighborhood around it is full of delicious cafes and beautiful gardens. Climbing the Eiffel Tower was a pain, though. It was crowded and the lines were long. There are two main levels you have to go through, and that means two long lines if you do not want to take the stairs. The view though... oh the view. The height of the tower almost matches that of the Empire State Building, if you can imagine it. From the tower, you can get a perfect view of all of the great monuments of Paris: Sacre Coeur, Notre-Dame, L'Arc de Triumph and the Louvre.
     The Louvre, one of the worlds' largest museums and home to La Joconde or the Mona Lisa, painted by Leonardo da Vinci, is a must see if you travel to Paris. The painting is highly overrated, but the museum is immense and full of several beautiful pieces of art and history. The Code of Hammurabi is one of the museums' large attractions, as well as the statue of Ramses II. The medieval structure that was the Louvre has been preserved within the museum, and it is quite wonderful to explore. Unfortunately in the three hours that we were in the Louvre, we only finished half of the museum. I recommend going as soon as they open if you want to see the entire museum.
     Beyond the normal attractions of Paris, you have to find a cozy spot just off of the beaten tourist track, and enjoy a cafe au lait and a Parisian favorite, the macaroon. Nobody does macaroons like Paris, and when I go back, the first thing that I am doing is finding the nearest Patisserie and munching on a chocolate macaroon.